Here she is in her newly made True Bias Nikko Top made up in yummy organic cotton interlock from Birch (both in the shop) as well as her tried-and-true Persephone pants (pattern from Anna Allen Clothing). Kenzie has made 19 pairs of Persephone pants, tweaking the fit each time so she has them just the way she wants them to fit. This is truly one of the reasons that We don’t carry this PDF pattern, but we’d be happy to print it for you with our in-house AO printer. We also have a Sun Bleached denim in the shop which would give a very similar look. Special thanks to Zachary for taking these photos during a lull in the action at the shop last week.
Here's Kenzie on her recent trip to California. She made so many great garments for her trip. Here's a highlight, The Merchant & Mills Sidney Sweatshirt (we have Paper or PDFD versions of this pattern) in Merchant & Mills soft stitch jacquard in palest pink. She's also wearing Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks made up in Merchant and Mills EU Linen in neon pink "Andy" colorway. This pattern is a real favorite with many of our customers, many one whom have made multiple pairs of these pants. The Andy linen is currently unavailable, but we are expecting a roll of this linen in "Acid House" which is a deeper neon pink tending toward fuchsia.
The combination of the morning light, winter angle of the sun and the white oak holding on to last years leaves made a shadow over our iconic bench that I’d never seen before on this day in early Spring. Here, Kenzie is wearing her cozy Grodin coat. This pattern, which we have in paper and PDF format, is by Minneapolis based designer, Kathryn Sterner for her clothing line, Winsome Goods. Kenzie made her Grodin in our Merchant & Mills jacquard in natural (We also have this fabric in many other colorways). She bound the inside seams are bound the Liberty Tana Lawn, a technique called Hong Kong finish. Such a beautiful make! You can also see another example of her perfectly perfected Persephone pants pattern from Anna Allen designs. This is such a lovely coat and she's already had a lot of wear out of it. ( As a side note, while we like the aliteration of "perfectly perfected," we like to emphasize learning and improvement rather than striving for "perfection" in our sewing)
Here's Kenzie's Lola Top (also from Winsome Goods). She made up in pink Nani Iro double gauze. She modified it by adding elastic at the waist. Kenzie has worked hard to perfect the fit of these garments and it shows. As always, she has the fit spot on. Way to go Kenzie!
Some things you might not know about Kenzie: She used to be afraid of dogs but is now devoted to (a sews for) her little dog Charlotte. Her favorite color in pink. (well, we expect you had already figured that out). She loves playing mini-golf at Big Stone Mini Golf in Minnetrista.
Follow Kenzie's sewing adventures over on Instagram @kenziesews, where her motto is "Minnesota maker making makes. Mental health matters🧠 Recovering from an ED, sewing clothes to honor my body❤️" We think that says it all.
]]>
Many of you who have visited the shop have asked about the little "pet" slugs that sit on the finial by my ironing board. The original was a gift from my Grandma and was purchased in London around 1970 and I think the fabric is an original Laura Ashley block print. I made a prototype reproduction slug from Merchant & Mills Wes linen. After a little tweaking (and a slug photo session), I'm happy to present my tutorial...
First assemble the following supplies:
First, trace pattern and lines for embroidery using temporary marker such as Frixion pen or chalk marker. Place fabric in hoop and then embroider along lines using backstitch or chain stitch (I used backstitch with #8 pearl cotton).
Remove fabric from hoop, and cut out slug shape. Turn down 1/4" along top (head) edge and iron. Fold in half lengthwise and stitch along curved (back) edge using matching thread and 1/4" seam allowance (this can be done either by machine or by hand with small stitches).
Turn right side out (a "pokey pokey thing", otherwise known as a point turner is handy here. Next hand sew a row of stitches along the back seam between the first and fourth rows or embroidery, gather these stitches tightly and backstitch to hold gathers in place. This allows the slug to hold his head up.
Next fill your slug with crushed walnut shells, rice or lentils. You want to use a heavy filling, not cotton or other fluff. I made a little paper funnel to help with this. You want to fill your slug till he's very full.
Pin the head end together tucking matching folded edges and then sew the slug closed using ladder stitch in matching thread. Sew tiny buttons or bead onto each corner of the head for eyes. I like to use contrasting thread for this step as it adds expression. Finally, embroider on a tiny smile and say "Hi" to your new friend.
Now he needs a friend!....
]]>For her dress, L wanted something comfortable, colorful and fun. She chose the Fiona Sundress (low back, cross strap variation) from Closet Case Patterns in Rifle Paper Company Linen/Cotton (Julia print in light colorway). I worked hard on the pattern matching (which is one of my favorite things about sewing. This turned out nicely for the pockets and not quite for the front of the dress (Rifle print repeats often tend to be more complicated than they look and require quite a bit of yardage for perfect pattern matching).
I didn't make a toile for this (no time for that...) but I started with shortening the bodice by 1 1/2 " (this is a standard adjustment for us).We did three fitting to get the strap length and placement juuuust right, which was definitely worth the extra effort, because it fit really quite well when we were done.
She chose matte gold buttons which was brilliant, not just because we have a bunch of them in the shop, but also because they were a visible detail, despite the boisterous print.
Here is the finished product on the happy Graduate! YAY!
]]>
]]>
We’re in Residence at The Resonance Box, a lovely little space at 5255 Chicago Ave, Minneapolis. Our new home is shaping up quite nicely, if we don’t say so ourselves. We’ll be here until Springtime, so we have lots of time to get acquainted. We have beautiful fabrics and tools, independent and European patterns, supportive instruction, and lots of fun things in store. Now all we need is for you to join us.
We're still getting our legs underneath us, but we're starting to get some events scheduled...(Oh, and did we mention the new website, complete with a glitch or two?)
This week we will have open sewing studios on Tuesday 7-9 PM, Saturday 3-5 PM, and Sunday 1-3 PM. The cost is $25 and Sarah will be on hand to help. Bring a project, or let us help you get started on one. Bring your own machine, or use one of our lovely pink Eversewn Sparrows.
Our new website is now ready to accommodate scheduling, so sign up in advance if you can. Or, drop us an email, text or call so we can plan accordingly. If you want to show up at the last minute, feel free, we'll do our best to make it work!
Next on the list is an invitation to our first Sew and Tell meet up. If you're like us, community is an important part of your sewing experience. Whether it's following a fellow maker on Instagram, through a blog/website, an on-line course, a book or a pattern, we all make each other better when we share our experience. So what could be better, or more inspiring, than getting together with fellow sewists in real life?
We would love to meet you this Thursday evening, if even for a few minutes. We know your fellow sewists would love to meet you to! If you can, join us. Wear your me-mades or come as you are. Bring a recent or favorite make, UFO or WIP (better yet, bring a friend.) Review a pattern, ask a question, teach us a trick or tell us your story. We want to see and hear all of it. Or, if you’d rather, just come hang out and have some cake...
We are planning on making this a twice monthly event (one Sunday and one week night), so if you can't come out to play this week, don't worry. We'll get together soon.
We are so excited about this next one...Paper Poppies! We will all have a chance to learn to make them with Anna from A Paper Florist! We will host her in our studio on Saturday November 10 from 10-1 PM.
With Anna's careful instruction you will learn how to create vibrant, lifelike crepe paper poppies to brighten up your home for the coming winter! Each student will complete at least one flower in the workshop, and go home with materials to complete a bouquet at home. This would be a lovely handmade holiday or hostess gift, but you don't have to share...The class fee of $55 includes everything you need (templates, paper, glue, floral tape/wire, take home instructions). All you need to bring is you!
You can sign up for Anna's class here.
Last, but not least, we couldn't leave you without including at least one picture of pretty fabric. In the process of moving our inventory over to the new space, this little grouping of chartreuse, green, flax and grey came together almost by accident. We thought we'd share it with you. Hope to see you soon.
]]>
The Minnesota Pinners Conference came to the Minneapolis Convention Center Friday June 22 and Saturday June 23, and we were invited to participate. It was a great experience. My original post follows:
I've never been to a Pinners Expo, so I'm not quite sure what to expect, but the idea is to see and try some of the kinds of projects/ideas you might have seen on the Pinterest platform. There are lots of classes in a broad spectrum of categories such as Home, Decor, Lifestyle, Crafts, DIY, Entertaining, Food, etc. There is also a huge long list of vendors who will be represented. We'd love to have you join us for any (or all) of our 4 classes! Feel free to use (and share) our code LAKE when you register to get a 10% discount of admission/class fees. To learn more about the Minnesota Pinners Conference, click here.
We have been busy pulling fabrics and prepping kits so that our projects can be completed (or at least well underway) within the one hour (!) allotted for each class. The sewing classroom will accommodate 30 people and will be set up with Janome sewing machines, scissors and ironing stations. We understand (and fervently hope) that there we someone from Janome there to help with thread jams and other sewing machine issues...
We start out Friday morning at 11 AM with our tried and true Kenwood Party Buntings. This is always a fun project and is super beginner friendly! Each bunting will have 5 flags in different fabrics and shapes on a long grosgrain ribbon. We'll have a big variety of lovely fabrics and different color schemes kitted up for you to choose from.
On Friday Evening we'll debut our Japanese Boho style trivet. Each kit contains a variety of vintage and new cotton, linen, flax and wool fabric pieces that you can arrange into your own design. There is a layer of heat reflective fleece for the lining. We've included a sashiko needle and two colors of sashiko thread and we'll review a variety of simple stitches that you choose from to complete the project on your own time. The design is completed with simple leather handle that you can also sew on by hand.
Everyone can use a new oven mitten, can't they? On Saturday at 1:00 pm we'll make a lined, heat resistent hand or machine quilted oven mitten. We have these kitted up in a wide variety of fabrics with contrasting linings and a handy leather hanging loop. We're going to have to move fast to get this one done in an hour, but I think we can do it!
Last, but not least on Saturday at 2:30 pm we'll make a super simple, but oh-so-useful zipper pouch (the Kennilworth clutch) with the worlds easiest zipper application. Again we'll have a bunch of different styles and colors of fabrics in our kits, so everyone should be able to find one they love. We've included a Kraft-tex patch so you can personalize the outside with your own sewn on label.
If you're at the convention, stop by and say "Hi." we'd love to meet you.
]]>My first version of the Roscoe, I made from a piece of baby wale corduroy that I bought when my daughter was a baby. I loved the way the bright cornflower, plum and leaf green floral pattern contrasted with the black ground, almost like velvet, but not quite. It reminded me of a Liberty print (which it's not) and at the time seemed like the perfect fabric for a little girl's holiday dress up dress or jumper (like velvet, but not too "fancy"). Fast forward almost 17 years and I finally found the right pattern.
This dress has a simple gathered "peasant" neckline with ties that can be worn open, and a bracelet-length raglan sleeves that gather gently into narrow band. It can be made up as a top, tunic, or even a maxi dress, with or without a gentle ruffle at the bottom. Soft but not to "frilly" or "fancy" (kind of like the corduroy). Perfect with tights and boots for my now- grown-up high school girl at holiday time this winter.
Roscoe dress number 2 was a "selfish make" for me. I've taken to wearing flannel as often as possible during our Minnesota winters. My "uniform" has become 3 flannel Wiksten Tovas, and a Merchant and Mills Dress Shirt dress with tights/leggings/or long underwear , and boots or clogs (weather permitting).
I had also fallen in love with the Jolie-laid ("pretty ugly") mustard and grey checked Mammoth flannel in the shop. It got to the point where I was jealous every time I sold a piece, so I knew I had to save some for myself. Enter Roscoe. I made mine longer, and perhaps a size too big (big enough to layer over a cozy turtleneck). Almost, but not quite as cozy as pajamas. Perfect with a cup of coffee by the fire on a chilly day.
Now that the days are longer and the snow is almost melted (it is Spring after all), I'm waiting for the new lawns and double guazes to arrive. And I'm dreaming up my next round of Roscoes, after all the pattern is at traced, marked, ready and waiting. Another TNT* pattern...Don't you love it when that happens?
*Tried and True
]]>Several months have gone by, but I finally promised myself I would get this posted today. It's snowy outside, but not as cold as when we took these pictures. If you scroll down you'll see that is was leafy and green in early fall when this garment was actually finished. This was my daughter's choice for her high school homecoming dance. I thought is was a bold one...first of all long flowy pants in a sea of short dresses, and then the bright red, super-saturated color of the Rifle Paper Co Les Fleurs rayon for Cotton and Steel. The look was topped off with vintage Kork-Ease platforms (not the snow boots she's wearing in these pictures) which gave it a seventies, comme Halston vibe, without being costumey.
We used a combination of patterns, starting with the Sew House Seven Bridgetown backless dress with its dramatic draped back (perfect for the substantial, yet drapey Cotton and Steel rayon that I love to sew with). We then looked to McCalls M0525 for the flowy pants part. We has this pattern in in the stash having sewn the short, off the shoulder romper variation earlier in the summer).
We choose a size 6 for the top and a size 8 for the bottom, figuring it would be an easy adjustment to fit them together, as both patterns have elasticated waists. Then miracle of miracles!....They fit together perfectly, so we skipped the muslin part and forged ahead. or course this was also necessary because the garment was completed the day before the dance. (In my defense Homecoming was the very first week of school this year.)
The only adjustments we made for her petite 5'3" frame were 1) shortening the bodice and 2) shortening leg length for a 5'3" frame, though less than usual to account for 3" platforms. We added a drawstring to the elastic, softly tied to add a little detail to the front. Add big dangly earrings, a bracelet, and platform shoes and you can go straight from your volleyball match to the dance (which is why we didn't get any pictures taken last fall).
Would I sew this again? In a heart beat! The fit was so easy given the drawstring/elastic waist and lots of ease in the silhouette. It was really easy to sew, and I think it looked quite elegant. (It would be beautiful in velvet) I also think it would be flattering on lots of body types.
What would I do differently? I stabilized the seams that wrap at the back with thin strips of very light weight interfacing. Because these were cut in the bias, I was afraid they might stretch and become distorted and "baggy". This turned out to be overkill with this fabric, which would have been stable enough to omit this step. In the end, I think the stabilizer inhibited the drape a little. Despite this unnecessary step, we were both happy with the way it turned out.
Do you have examples of melange or Franked-Pattern sewing from your experience?
]]>I find myself sewing a lot less from big 4 patterns lately, but I think I've purchased almost every pattern by Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity (and even sewn up several of them). I bought this pattern last Spring, in part because it reminded me of a white eyelet floor length dress I had (and loved) back in the late 70's. I held onto it but was a little skeptical. First of all, at the time, my daughter wasn't interested in it and second of all...well, I had some concerns.
As you can see from the pattern envelope cover, and from the shots in the pattern catalog, the dress is extremely full and a little stiff looking, sort of like a very short tent. While I'm usually not too put off by the styling of the pattern cover photos, this one was a little extreme (and what is the deal on those shoes?). I love the color of the dress, the model is adorable and she looks like she's having fun, but what will happen if she has to bend over, or, heaven forbid, she gets caught in a gust of wind? I just wasn't quite sure the pattern was going to work. Nevertheless, when Lucie's request came in for an off-the-shoulder dress this Spring, I remembered this pattern.
I looked at other reviews on the web and all makers lengthened the dress, several chose to make a size or two smaller than their usual, and to cut down the width of the front and back pieces to reduce the volume. I decided to use a different tactic, and used a softer fabric with more drape hoping to reduce the volume that way. I choose the Ranchero Rayon Chambray that we have over in the shop. It's a beautiful indigo color with obvious twill weave and a little sheen. Rayon is also cool to wear in the summer which is another plus. After reviewing the desired length (my daughter is 5'3" and I figured the model is probably 6') and the length of the pattern pieces, I eventually dove in and cut the pattern out in a size extra small with no adjustments! ! !
It's a super easy pattern to make, taking less than an hour to serge together once I got started. I used 1 1/4" elastic instead of the recommended 1" because that's what I had handy. I think it looks ok, but I'd use 1" elastic if you have it. I shortened the sleeves a little for my petite client. We also hemmed it up with the deep (4" hem) as pictured, but then decided it was too short. I had to let it down by an inch and a half. All of the hemming took longer than any other part. I also added little rouleaux straps that fall over the shoulders. These button to the inside of the dress where the sleeve meets the front/back. I think they add a nice detail to the "simplicity" and a real bonus is that they make it possible to hang the dress on a hanger, as you can see below. Here is a shot of the dress posing with our Purple Clematis which is blooming beautifully this year.
Once again on a mannequin as my real life model (#24) is unavailable for a photo shoot, because Volleyball! They are playing their last tournament of the year in the Wisconsin Dells this weekend.
Here is another photo (below), taken at the Artrageous Adventures Studio (2121 W 21st St, Minneapolis), where I have a pop-up shop and a place to teach classes for the summer. I'm there lots of mornings, evenings, and also by appointment. If you're in the "downtown Kenwood" (Minneapolis) neighborhood, give a call or stop by and say "Hi."
Here is a close up of the button-in rouleaux ties that can be removed or tucked in and also serve as hanging loops.
I also put a label in the back as this definitely one of those garments where it's difficult to tell the front from the back when you put it on.
Overall, I recommend this pattern. I think it would also make a cute top or romper. Next time, I will add a little length to allow for a deeper hem. If I use a crisper fabric I will definitely size down again and cut it narrower. As usual, if I can get some pictures of the dress on a living breathing person, I will let you know.
Have a great weekend,
Sarah
]]>It's May Day! We had a cold, rainy/sleety/snowy one here, but that doesn't mean we can't start sewing for Spring anyway. I made this sweet summer top two weeks ago. I used Simplicity 8335 and a lightweight checked voile. The pattern is a "Learn to Sew" pattern and I guess I would rate it as an advanced beginner pattern (but a good one for learning) because it requires setting in a sleeve, a ruffle and a combination ruffle, and flounce for the "statement sleeve." The most difficult part was probably the curved hem of the sleeve flounce. All of those descriptors make the top sound awfully girly, but in the end it doesn't look ruffly or frilly, just Springy and cool.
This was a birthday gift for my daughter, so I just made it up without any fitting because it was (kind of) a secret. I made up the size extra-small, based on measurements and RTW sizing (once again forgetting how small big 4 patterns are compared to ready-to-wear). I shortened the top by about 3 inches and the length of the sleeve flounce by about one inch to make it petite. The top went together very nicely. The sleeve was easy to set (at least in this fabric). I thought the directions were a little more detailed than usual, perhaps because the pattern is labelled "Learn to Sew!"
When she tried it on it the length was good. but turned out to be to a little too small. It was especially small around the upper arms (my daughter plays volleyball and she does have muscles!). Luckily, I had fabric for a do-over. So we tried again, this time cutting a small, with medium arm scythe and sleeve, keeping the length adjustment the same. This one had to go together in time for the school band trip to Nashville the next day, which it did....
So the answer for the smaller top is to send it to my niece, who is quite a bit smaller. The fit of the style is forgiving, so I think it will look cute even if it is a little big on her. I did add the optional tie to the back, which will help keep in on her shoulders. It's a nice detail. The pattern can also be made without the sleeve flounce and includes instructions for a crossed straps detail at the back.
I would definitely make this pattern again in voile, lawn or double gauze. I think it would look even cuter in a softer fabric, but the version on the pattern cover in gingham is cute too. It just stands out from the body quite a bit more. In terms of fit , our main issues were the usual petite length adjustments as well as upper arm circumference (which I did not see coming). Also, when sewing for larger sizes, keep in mind that the pattern has no bust darts, which might effect fit for some body types.
The pictures I include here are of the smaller top, which is now on it's way to Columbia, Missouri (I suspect it's warmer there). When I can get pictures of either of the girls modeling I'll post them for you to see. Both of the girls tell me they like the styling, so you have the thumbs up from two teenagers, one in the North and one the Southern MidWest.
Happy May Day to all of you!
]]>
I researched everything I could find about sewing velvet and settled on a strategic plan that basically consisted of lots of pinning and basting. I tried to minimize pressing, using steam and finger pressing when possible. If I had to press, I tried to do it gently and from the wrong side. I inherited a special high pile press cloth for velvet. I have had this ultra-niche tool in my tool box for many, many years. Of course, when I wanted to try it, it was no where to be found...so I just used a scrap of the velvet, "furry" side down as a makeshift press cloth when pressing from the right side was necessary.
Pinning was made more fun by using these sweet flat-headed tulip shaped pins from Tulip, Japan. I love how they look all in a row like a little spring garden brightening up a cold Winter day. I have heard these pins described as "life changing". They are beautifully packaged, long and very, very thin. They cover a lot more ground than your usual pins. You can also iron right over therewith a hot iron and they don't melt. Because they are flat, they don't leave a divet in your fabric either. Love them! (For all you Canadians out there, there is also a Tulip pin with little red maple leaves).
Basting was made more fun by experimenting with different stitch patterns (it is officially "Embroidery Month", after all) and by using many .different colors of thread (I emptied nearly every almost-empty bobbin in the house). If you're going to do a lot of basting, you might as well turn it into embroidery practice!
The dress was lined with vintage black silk from my grandmother's stash, except for the pockets with were lined with pink satin (originally purchased to make a tangle-preventing pillowcase...)
The hardest thing about working with velvet for this make was inserting the zipper. I used a regular (not invisible) zipper and hand sewed it. I usually enjoy hand picking a zipper, but the slipperiness of the velvet made this task a little troublesome. I couldn't think of a stick on stabilizer that I would want to leave in and was scared to try any dissolvable. With some extra fiddling, iIt came out looking fine I think.
I love using vintage or antique notions when I canI also used vintage pink rayon seam binding (original cost on package was 13c) and sewed the hem by hand. Lastly, I used purple rayon seam binding to make hanging loops to avoid stress/stretching when the dress is hung. These were 10" lengths, folded into to loops and set into the inside upper edge of the back about 3 inches from the side seams.
I was quite pleased with how the dress turned out (especially with the lovely pinky-nude pumps my daughter picked out). In the end making the dress, might have been easier than finding the shoes to go with it...
If any of you have tips or tricks for sewing velvet, I'd love to hear about them. Feel free to leave a comment or drop me an email. I'd love to hear from you.
Sarah
P.S. Now is a good time to sign up for my newsletter. We are celebrating the arrival of Merchant and Mills patterns by giving newsletter subscribers 20% off in February with code LAKEMAKENEWS.
]]>Allow me to introduce Schuyler. She is thirteen years old and was adopted as a puppy at the Golden Valley Animal Humane Society. She lived across the street from us with a lovely retired violinist, and when he could no longer care for her she became part of our family.
She looks like an English Shepherd, but has one brown eye and one blue eye, like huskies sometimes do. She has a beautiful silky coat with lots and lots of underfur. After giving her a good brushing, I often wonder whether I should take up spinning. (I once saw a book about knitting with dog fur and wonder whether anybody tried it 🐿❤️).
All of our dogs like to get in photographs but Schuyler is the most consistent photobomb! (See some of her previous work on my Sept. 23 post.) When we were taking these picture of the Carolina Gingham toile, she really made it quite impossible.
Here she is, eating the props again.
Schuyler is good at reminding me of staying in "in the moment." She is a calming influence who stays right nearby, and stares right into your eyes (which is extra mesmerizing given that she has one brown eye and one blue eye. When she stares she seems to to say "relax and take a breath, you have everything you need right now.... oh, and by the way, pet me."
There was a very interesting article published in the New York Times about the therapeutic benefit of eye contact with a dog. It's called "The Look of Love is in a Dog's Eyes". It turns out that, like babies, they have this effect on us.
Until next time,
Sarah (and Schuyler)
]]>Esme a simple shift dress, meaning that the body cut from one main piece without a separate bodice and skirt. This results in silhouette that is rather straight, with minimal definition of bust, waist or hip curves. The shift silhouette can be frumpy if the cut or fit is not good (think middle school Home Ec project gone wrong... ). But when a shift dress works, it skims the body just right, and the result can be gamine, or even sophisticated in its clean-lined simplicity. A shift is also very comfortable to wear. Having said all that, the Esme pattern just works for me, so I keep coming back to it. It's especially nice to have pockets that are perfect for dropping in a cell phone (that way I can listen to podcasts even when moving around the house or yard or even in car). The Esme shift's straightforward shape also lends it to easy variations or "hacks", as they've come to be known. The Every Day Style book includes two neckline variations and the pattern can be made up in top, tunic or dress length.
I made my first Esme in Robert Kaufmann Carolina Gingham. This has become my go to fabric for toile (muslin) making, because any alterations are easy to measure and apply using with the 1" gingham grid. This fabric also produces a toile that it not only "wearable", but one that you actually want to wear. Carolina gingham fabric comes in so many great colors. The Esme pictured below (on a warm summer day in our back yard) is made up on Carolina gingham in the "fog" color way.
The gingham toile fit quite well, but I decided to move the bust dart up slightly and increase the length. This lead to my second Esme, this time in Robert Kaufman Slub Chambray with Liberty neck facing and hem binding (for more details about this, see my last post about "Secret Sewing". This dress has been a go to in my day to day wardrobe. The fit and simplicity allow this lovely fabric to really shine when made up in this simple silhouette. It also can dress a little up or down depending on the styling.
I love the bell sleeves that have been trending in ready-to wear lately, so after tagging a few of these of Pinterest, I decided to venture forth and modify the Esme pattern to include this feature in my next make. This is my first variation, made up in sweet-but-not-too-sweet Birch cotton from the Rifle Paper Co. Les Fleurs collection for Cotton and Steel. My goodness I love the color palette in this fabric...
My most recent Esme make is a (late) birthday present for my BFF. The fabric for her Esme is by Lotta Jansdotter (appropriately), from her recent Hemma Collection for Windham. I chose this because Kathy admired it at Quilt Market, (which she was forced to attend with me in Salt Lake City last Spring). The main fabric is the Orancy print in Gray Rock with facings in Lillia Citron. Again, I added the bell sleeve detail, but this time, tweeked it so the gathering is only on the outside of the sleeve. I like the shape of the sleeve better in this version.
I What is nice about this sleeve variation is that it only uses an extra 6" long piece, the width of 44"/45" fabric, so it can be mage with less than a quarter of a yard of fabric. It's also really easy to do. If you can cut rectangles and sew gathers, you can pull off the pattern hack. I've had a couple of requests for instructions for this sleeve variation, so this morning I doodled my method out on paper to share.
You can view the instructions here in a new page, or Download the PDF. As you can see, i am neither an artist nor a pattern designer, but I hope it gets the point across. I hesitated to use the work "ruffle" in the instructions, but I was otherwise at a loss for a word, so "ruffle" it is. Don't let that scare you away! Feel free to download the instructions, try them out, and share them if you want (try to remember to mention my site www.lakesmakerie.com or @lakesmakerie over on Instagram, and tags your projects with @bellsleevevariation). I would love any feedback and would especially love to see your makes!
S
]]>
This is the Rose City Halter dress that I made in the beautiful periwinkle Birch Floral rayon from the Rifle Paper Les Fleurs collection for Cotton and Steel. I showed this dress in an earlier post, but what you didn't see was the inside. I always like to include hanging loops on my garments, and for this dress I used pieces of the selvage from the fabric. Cotton and Steel is known for their cute, creative selvage designs, which generally include the name of the artist who designed the fabric and the year the collection was printed. This one is also especially pretty. The dress was lined with vintage silk that was part of the stash that I inherited from my grandmother, who played a big part in teaching me how to sew. This way, when my daughter wears this dress to her upcoming homecoming dance, she will be carrying a good luck charm from her great-grandmother.
This is the hemline of one of the many Esme tunics that I have made. The pattern is from Lotta Jansdotter's book Everyday Style, which I highly recommend. The dress is made from Robert Kaufman Chambray and the hem binding is a Liberty of London Tana lawn. I love making my own binding as it's so much nicer to sew with and is a really easy way to make even the simplest garment special. This particular Liberty print has a funny story behind it, so every time I wear this dress I'm reminded of a silly negotiation around the purchase of this fabric from a delightful jobber at my very first Quilt Market last Spring.
This is a close up of the Bianca blouse shown in my post about the Les Fleurs fabric line. The cute pattern for this blouse is from a French Company called Wear Lemonade. The body of the blouse was made of the Rosa cotton print in Navy and the back role was made from a very pretty vintage cotton with both Swiss dots and a jacquard stripe. I bought it at a vintage shop and don't have very much yardage of it, but there was plenty for these yoke pieces. I even have some leftover for another project . . . I'm thinking it would make a very cute sailor collar.
Here is my most recent make, yet another Esme dress, this time in fabric by Lotta Jansdotter's Hemma collection. I love this collection for its great color palette and block printed feel (more about that later). In this case, the dress is made from the Orancy print in the Gray Rock colorway with the facing in Lilla Citron. I'm loving this mustardy yellow color this season, but for someone who is not ready to go all in wearing it, having a little peek of citron inside the neckline is a more subtle way to enjoy this color. The little bird seems to like it too.
I'll provide more details on this make in my next post.
Happy Monday and have a great week!
Sarah
]]>
After this make, I then had an opportunity to test the Sew House 7 Nehalem pattern. I made the pants, which I love and wear constantly. I will tell you more about that pattern in a future post. Because today, I want to tell you about the Rose City Halter Dress.
Here is Lucie in the wearable toile (or muslin) of the Rose City Dress. We were both quite happy with the way it turned out. Lucie is about 5'3" and we sewed a size 8. We cut this version about 6" shorter than the printed pattern. I've tried to be more diligent about making toile to check fit and to facilitate making any changes before cutting into fabric that is one-of -kind, vintage, irreplaceable or just too precious to sacrifice to the "great unknown." It is just fabric after all, but sometimes, it is really special. On the other hand, I didn't enjoy of making up a toile out of something that is unwearable, both because it seems like such a waste to have it end up back at a thrift shop or, worse, in the landfill. In addition, it's just a more pleasant experience to work with a fabric that feels nice an behaves itself.
I've decided that using cotton gingham for a toile is a good compromise. This is the 1 inch Carolina Gingham from Robert Kaufman (available in the shop in several colors) is a good compromise. The grided pattern on Gingham has the advantage of making it easy to mark, measure and document any changes. It also comes in a wide array of great colors. I have always had a soft spot for gingham as I walks the line between sweet and sophisticated with so much aplomb! In the end, this toile turned out the be quite cute and wearable. We didn't have to make changes in terms of fit and the dry run let me work out any kinks before cutting into the Les Fleurs rayon.
I didn't find any problems at all with this pattern. I used lining fabric instead of the gingham for the undersurface of the tie (this, from a long habit of not really reading directions when using Big 4 or Japanese patterns...). This is not really a big deal, but I did make a point to do it properly in my final make. The look of this dress is quite classic, but unlike most halter dresses is really is quite "covered up in the front and on the sides. The pattern includes two skirt variations, the gathered one you see here, and a flat fronted more semi-circular shape (I haven't tried this one yet). Both variations include pockets. The pockets on his variation are wonderful, set not in the side seam, but to the front, in a way that makes the pockets much more stable and usable. This is design element that was simple to sew, and one I will definitely keep in mind when "hacking" other patterns in the future. As we all know, you've gotta have pockets.
My most frequently asked question so far is about "support." I am happy to report that this dress can be worn with a bra with convertible straps, but even with out poses little danger of "overexposure". This is a really big plus, for people who are a little more modest or full figured. It also makes the pattern very adaptable and not necessarily 'summery."
One little detail I did add to my Rose City dress was hanging loops. I inserted loops of ribbon at the top of the seam between the bodice and lining about 1 1/2 inches to the back of the side seams. These support the dress on the hanger, balancing the weight to prevent stress on the ties and help to keep it wrinkle free. Its also a fun way to use up little bits of ribbon, seam binding or tape from you stash. For this I used some vintage ribbon than cam from my grandmother.
I could easily imagine this dress as a more formal, seasonless look in a dark colored silk or even velvet. I have some dark green tartan silk in my stash that would look beautiful made up in this pattern. It would make a great Winter formal or bridesmaid dress. We may give it a try this Winter. In short, we love this pattern. I'll share the details of the final make in my next post.
Sarah
]]>I went to my first Quilt Market in Salt Lake City last Spring. Granted the fact that I was there was a stroke of luck because I didn't yet have a shop, only an idea of a shop, a domain name, a bank account and an LLC called Lakes Makerie. I just felt so ready to dive in and learn, that I just had to go and be a part of it. It was a great experience (made better because my best friend Kathy, who always makes everything better, was able to come along). I saw so many beautiful things.
One fabric line I loved best was Les Fleurs, a collaboration between Anna Rifle Bond founder of Rifle Paper Co. and Cotton and Steel. I wasn't able to get samples at the Sample Swap (that was a experience unto itself...), but 2 days later I placed my order. I was so happy to see the fabrics again when they arrived last month. Here they are posing for a quick photo at the bottom of the front stairs. Aren't they beautiful?
The first thing I made was the Bianca Blouse by Make My Lemonade from a French company called Wear Lemonade. It's a downloadable PDF pattern in French, with an adorable on-line video tutorial (also in French). I look forward to trying some of their other designs I used the Rosa cotton in Navy and added a white vintage swiss dot with a shadow stripe for the back yoke.
I hesitate to call the Cotton and Steel fabric "quilting weight" because is has a much softer hand and drape then what I think of when i hear "quilting cotton." Here Rosa in Navy.
This fabric also comes in peach and periwinkle.
Next up was the Birch Rayon. This substrate really shows of the wonderful color palette that Rifle Paper Co. is co famous for. It also has a wonderful weight and drape. This fabric proved to be a pleasure to work with. Maybe a little less forgiving than the cotton, but not at a slippery or fragile feeling. A confident beginner (i.e someone who has sewn a garment or two) will be very comfortable sewing with this fabric and will be happy with the results it gives.
I was eager to use this fabric to make Rose City Halter Dress. This which was designed by the talented Peggy Mead at Sew House Seven. (I love this pattern and will review it in more detail in the next few Days). I knew I wanted to have some pictures of these makes for the "Sew Photo Hop" happening this month over on instagram, so I persuaded my daughter Lucie (curly hair) and her bestie Carly (straight hair) to model for me one evening last weekend. They were my "little flowers" in "Les Fleurs". The girls were real troopers, enduring the mosquitos who have really been out in force these last few days. The hardships of a photoshoot... Please bear with variable light and color of the photos, the junior photographer (me) is just learning to take pictures and I used two different cameras, something I will never do again. We were also being attacked by mosquitos, a well-recognized hazard on warm Minnesota evenings.
Lucie in Bianca blouse. Carly in Rose City dress.
Lucie is wearing a "me-made" skirt. This is the Purl Gathered skirt in Robert Kaufman Chambray (the one with multicolored "motes" or slub texture). The directions for this skirt are available on the Purl Soho website and I highly recommend their tutorial. This skirt is a nice project for a beginner because it's all straight lines, has clever (enormous) pockets, and the fit is very forgiving. She finally managed to get this skirt finished after a summer of putting it off... There are just too many fun things to do when you're a teenager.
Directing models in a photoshoot is a skill that I definitely need to develop. We had a little trouble getting on the same page with regard to what mood we were going for in a given shot, hence one model serious and the other smiling!
As usual, Ole had to get in on the action and you can also see Schuyler's tail just to Carly's right. The dogs always have to get in on the action. At this point, the mosquitos became too much to bear so we all had to run for cover and say "Good night!"
Note: Mosquitos were harmed in the making of this photoshoot.
I am a mom, a wife, and an animal lover. We have 2 kids, 3 dogs and a cat, so someone is always coming or going around here. I am a physician and recently retired from a career in cardiology. We have lived in the Kenwood neighborhood of Minneapolis for 10 years now. Before that was Albuquerque, Charlottesville (for medical residency and cardiology training), Chicago (for medical school), Northfield MN (for college), Columbia MO, Boulder and Chicago (at the very beginning). Phew!
Enough about me. Let's get started!
]]>